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Barbarian days : a surfing life / by William Finnegan.

by Finnegan, William.

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Thorndike Press, a part of Gale Cengage Learning, 2016.

LP 797.32092 F514b

Finnegan, William

Surfing -- Anecdotes.

Surfers -- Biography.

Journalists -- United States -- 20th century -- Biography.

Authors, American -- 20th century -- Biography.

9781410485892 (hc.)

1410485897 (hc.)

Large print edition.

707 pages (large print) : illustrations ; 23 cm.

Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).

"A memoir of an obsession. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses -- off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites only gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia, becoming improbable anthropologists: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. William Finnegan has been a staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987. He is the author of Cold New World: Growing Up in a Harder Country and A Complicated War: The Harrowing of Mozambique. He lives in Manhattan"--Provided by publisher.

Autobiographies.

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